Glycolic Body Lotion: Buying Guide and Patch-Test Steps

Key takeaways

• Glycolic body lotion works by exfoliating, or shedding, surface skin.¹
• Strength depends on more than the percentage on the label.¹
• Look for 10 percent AHA or less and a final pH of 3.5 or greater.¹
• Patch test twice a day for 7–10 days before wider use.²
• Plan for sun protection while you use it.

What to look for

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA. AHA products cause exfoliation. That means they shed the surface skin.¹

Makers market AHA cosmetics for smoothing fine lines, improving skin texture and tone, and unblocking pores.¹

How strong a lotion is depends on the AHA type, its concentration, its pH and other ingredients.¹ So the percentage alone does not tell the full story. For example, 10% glycolic acid at pH 3.0 is generally over twice as active on the outer skin layer as 10% at pH 4.0.³

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel concluded that glycolic and lactic acid products are safe for consumers at 10 percent or less AHA and a final pH of 3.5 or greater, with sun protection addressed.¹

Also check that the label lists all ingredients. Retail cosmetics must list them. Salon-only products are not required to, so professional products may not show their AHA content.¹

Patch-test checklist

Use this list before you put a new lotion on large areas of skin.

• Check the label for 10% AHA or less and a final pH of 3.5 or higher.¹
• Remember that strength depends on concentration, pH and other ingredients, not percentage alone.¹³
• Choose a product with a full ingredient list.¹
• Pick a small spot where the product won’t rub or wash off, such as the inner arm or bend of the elbow.²
• Apply the lotion to that spot twice a day for 7–10 days.²
• Keep checking the whole time. Contact dermatitis can be a delayed reaction that takes a few days to appear.²
• Watch for burning, rash, swelling, itching, blisters or peeling.¹
• If skin reacts, wash the product off right away and stop using it.²
• Plan sun protection. After four weeks of AHA use, sensitivity to UV reddening rose by 18 percent in FDA studies.¹
• Know that this change was reversible. One week after stopping, no significant differences were found.¹

Glycolic lotion label features compared

This table shows what each label detail tells you. It does not rank any named product.

Products meant to treat acne or lighten skin are legally drugs, not cosmetics, in the US.¹ Check the label to see how a product is described.

How to use it safely

AHAs such as glycolic acid may raise sun sensitivity and sunburn risk. Use sunscreen, cover up and limit sun time while you use the lotion and for a week after you stop.

The most often reported problems with AHA skin products were burning, rash and swelling.¹ The more serious reactions appear most often with products that cause the greatest exfoliation, such as skin peelers.¹

Higher-strength professional products, up to 30%, are made for trained professionals. Follow the directions on the label of any lotion you buy.

Who should be careful

If your skin problem is long-lasting, inflamed or getting worse, ask a dermatologist or other health professional. Do this before you try a new acid lotion.

For more ideas, see our body care guides.

Frequently asked questions

What does glycolic body lotion do?

It exfoliates, which means it sheds surface skin.¹ Makers market AHA products for smoother texture and tone.¹

What strength is considered safe for consumers?

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel found glycolic and lactic acid products safe at 10 percent or less AHA and a final pH of 3.5 or greater, with sun protection addressed.¹

How long should I patch test?

Test a small spot twice a day for 7–10 days, since reactions may not show right away.²

What if my skin reacts?

Wash the product off right away and stop using it.²

Does glycolic acid make skin more sensitive to the sun?

In FDA studies, four weeks of AHA use raised sensitivity to UV reddening by 18 percent.¹ It was reversible one week after stopping.¹